Saturday 30th May 2015 brought with it a great adventure. An early alarm call dragged me out of bed and creeping into the house I put together breakfast quietly so as not to wake the slumbering family in the adjacent rooms. I was surprised to find several of the lights on but this was explained as I tiptoed to the front door and past Justin, asleep on the sofa and snoring softly. With the sun rising slowly beyond the horizon, I caught the bus to the city and wandered through the deserted metropolis to Barrack Street Jetty.
My dealings with Rottnest Express Ferries hadn't been overly positive from the beginning and today, to top off not being able to book to say over night and return ferry being cancelled, resulting in a return trip to Fremantle, I was now told that my outgoing ferry was replaced with a bus transfer to Fremantle. The poor ticket office attendant bore the brunt of my wrath as I'd been looking forward to cruising down the Swan River, and paid extra for the privilege! After lots of huffing and puffing, fierce outpouring of disdain to the host taking us on the coach and a strongly worded email to the head office, I managed to secure a refund for part of the trip. It was most out of character for me to be so disapproving and to be so vocal about it but after the series of disappointments I felt justified!
Nonetheless, after arriving on Rottnest Island my mood improved drastically, as I landed on this island of serenity. There's no private transport on the island so the only motorists on the road are driving hourly circular buses and emergency vehicles. Collecting my hired red bike from the ferry jetty, I felt as though I had entered Alice's Wonderland or an Enid Blyton novel and so this post will continue with the same feel.
Cautiously pushing my bike amongst the latest swam of fresh faced tourists arriving on the island, I hoped that the phrase 'It's like riding a bike' held true. It was years since I'd sat astride a bicycle, using only pedal power to propel myself and I hoped I wouldn't embarrass myself or worse, end up with broken bones! Once the excited throng had dispersed to begin their own adventures I tentatively leant my bike against a wall, fastened my obligatory helmet and thrust my leg over the saddle. The method of cycling really did return like riding a bike (boom boom!) and the years lacking in riding experiences escaped into a void. A few laps around the centre of the settlement built my confidence and I realised I felt a little peckish - especially as I'd eaten my cereals so early this morning! So I proudly parked my bike amongst the other shiny red cycles and wandered into the quaint mall.
The general store was like something out of a picture book with timber frames and a high vaulted ceiling. Clutching a patch badge and postcard to adorn my journal, I ventured to the bakery next door for a traditional Aussie pie, oozing with steaming chicken and vegetables. Satisfied that my belly was full and with time to studiously digest the island map, I set off on the medium length cycle track. Leaving the hustle and bustle of the settlement mall behind me, I discovered the undulating roadways were flooded with cyclists. With the wind whistling past my face and a determination to use the momentum I gained downhill to launch myself uphill, I crossed a seemingly deserted rail track and sailed past Hennrietta Rocks. At this stage I'd cycled for around half an hour and the prospect of barely being a quarter of the way around the trail stared me gloomily in the face so instead of forcing myself to race around the route, I returned to Henrietta Rocks to absorb the view.
Gazing out to sea, it was as if Mother Nature had created a natural dip in the landscape to accommodate the towering skyscrapers on the mainland in the distance. Perhaps this was to act as a reminder that reality was always within reach even on a serene, secluded island.
Down below, a group of relaxed sunworshippers explained the abandoned bicycles which were standing to attention in the bike rack on the cliff.
I wondered if other creatures frequented this bay with the remains of a shipwreck tentatively protruding from the surface close to beach. Perhaps if the island was free of visitors, elegant mermaids or eerie ghouls would openly come ashore to play.
With my energy restored and with reference to the Geocaching App on my phone, I began my search for some secluded caches. A vague plan to search close to the railway track was scuppered when I went soaring past but I stopped at a picturesque bus stop to recheck the GPS on my phone. Luckily there was another cache lurking just behind the stop to I crept tentatively amongst the bushes to a tree at the exact location. It was an easy spot and as I made a grab for it I heard an exclamation of "Look! There's a quokka!" So after a hurried signature in the log book, I scarpered from the bushes and crossed the road to a small information area and right there in front of me were three tame quokkas roaming around, searching for their next moment of fame by photo bombing a selfie.
Adjacent to this small information point there were gates showing amusing 'no quokka' signs and it did cross my mind whether the quokkas were smart enough to understand human signage! I passed through the low gates and along a short board walk to log my geocache find, boosting my total finds to 26.
Abandoning my cycle round the medium route completely and returned on my bike through the settlement which was scattered with 1960s Butlins-esque holiday homes and out of the other side in the hope of finding Bathurst Lighthouse. With aquamarine marbled water beside me, I peddled on until I reached a rocky path which led uphill.
Leaving my bike in a rack, I began the final climb round lush greenery until the towering lighthouse came into view.
With one last spurt up a particularly steep hill I reached the base of the white stone warning signal. The view of the neighbouring bay was stunning and you could see holiday makers frolicking in the sea.
Gazing up at the tall tower I daydreamed about the adventures that could be had and they became even more appealing when I noticed the chains across the door.
Returning to my bike I could almost see a face in the cliff side rocks and, similarly to the shipwreck around the coast, I wanderd if the island could take on an extraordinary life of its own.
To complete the day I bought a ticket for the island circling explorer bus and learnt about the sea creatures that lived alongside humans on the island. Disappointingly I didn't have time to explore the west end of the island to visit Wadjemup lighthouse or see the seals, dolphins or whales but i did enjoy the scenery speeding past.
Although I didn't have time to disembark from the bus en route, I had a small amount of time before my ferry returned to the mainland. I collected my waiting bike from its rack and cycled it round to the Rottnest Hotel. Ouch! Did my bottom ache now?! With a deliciously refreshing strawberry and lime cider I settled into a spot in the warm afternoon sun and was taking in my last moments on this glorious island when a lone peacock came strutting across the patio, marking his territory.
Sadly the end of my day gallivanting on this stunning island had come to an end and my early arrival at the ferry terminal ensured I had a seat outside overlooking the back of the boat. Overlooking the red bikes crammed in like sardines I admired the setting sun and the silouettes of the lighthouse twins preparing to cast their beacons of lights over the dark ocean as well at the solitary windmill whose blades turned tirelessly.
As we crept closer to the mainland shore, the outlines of what looked like battleships came into view, lined up ready to guard the majestic Rottnest Island during the night.
Back in the real world I found some dinner in Fremantle but the sunset and shadows on the way to the bus stop made me wonder whether I really was back in reality or if my dreamlike adventure was set to continue...
I can't go back to yesterday - because I was a different person then. - Lewis Carroll
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